Sunday, June 29, 2014

Lots to see

This weekend I had to get up to speed with my second weaving project.  I threaded the reed and have about a yard done.
 


I am weaving a 16/2 cotton which is much lighter than the 8/2 I was previously weaving.  It takes more time to weave but it makes a finer and lighter textile which will be perfect for the apron I will be making with it.  

This afternoon I drove to Glover to see a Bread & Puppet performance.  The show was half outside and half in the Paper Mache Cathedral.  




The B&P Museum is an incredible place!  




 A beautiful luna moth spotted this morning .

...and cutting and sewing of the tunic dress is underway!







Friday, June 27, 2014

Fort Ticonderoga's Tailor Shop

Thursday and Friday I had the amazing privilege of doing some stitching in Fort Ticonderoga's tailor Shop.  In the shop, the Tailors hand stitch, build, and repair all of the clothing their interpreters wear. They speak to the public about the trade of tailoring, which many soldiers in the Revolutionary War practiced,  the different types of fabrics used and where they were imported from, and the sturdy construction and features military clothing had to withstand the life of a soldier.

Paul, of the 5th NY Regiment, was in the shop learning how to construct wool breeches.  I was helping him sew and learning a  huge amount from the tailors Stuart, Adam, and Gibb.  As apposed to modern sewing techniques where finishing and hemming comes last, we finished off each piece of the garment first and then stitched them together.  This allows for multiple tailors to work at once and complete the project efficiently.


Tailors sit cross legged on their work table while sewing.  This way it is easy for multiple people to gather around the garment.  

Although tailoring was a men's trade and not something I as a women would be doing in the 18th century , I had some great opportunities to talk to the public about my weaving apprenticeship and the clothing that I was wearing. 


Adam and I stitching.  


Paul working on the waist band.


Gibb giving some instruction.




The interpreters get authentic solider rations for lunch cooked by the staff in the field kitchen.  It was super delicious both days! 


Leaving the inseam open, Stuart was able to fit and pin the Breeches on Paul and achieve the slim fit that was fashionable of the time.  



Most of the staff lives down the road. My room in the Winter House, where I spent the night, had an overshot coverlet on it !! (yay happy weaver).  




Wednesday, June 25, 2014

If it feels "off" it probably is...


I have decided that threading heddles is the most difficult step in the weaving process.

Each thread goes though the eye in the center of the heddle. This is tedious and time consuming work. You also must sit at an awkward position which leaves you feeling stiff and need of a good stretch... which I do every couple of inches !

So far, I have worked on threading four separate warps. Two of them for Kate and the other two were my own.

I like doing things right the first time. Backtracking and fixing errors is extremely frustrating for me. Today I stopped myself part of the way though threading a towel warp. The way I was threading didn't feel right. After asking for some guidance I discovered I was continuing out the double threading I was to do on the selvage of the fabric though-out the entire width of the fabric . This would make a thicker ribbed effect on the finished project which was not the goal. So, I had to start from scratch and also dread re-threading what I accomplished last night which I now knew was completely wrong.

The best way to learn is from your mistakes. If it feels "off" it probably is.



My re-threaded heddles. 


I pressed and rolled my first fabric.  It is ready for a pattern and some sewing.   


Now to thread the other half of my heddles so hopefully I can get weaving later tomorrow! 

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Done !

5 yards of hand woven fabric completed ! 


I was so happy when I took the fabric off the loom that I could not resist wrapping myself in it.  

My past couple of work/study projects have included threading a loom for a warped faced rug, winding spools of thread, and winding a linen warp for a rag rug.  



A linen warp.  This was very easy to wind since it was one color. (no stripes !)


This afternoon I started setting up my loom for my historical fabric project...


..and got though threading half in the evening.  

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Visitng the Shelburne Museum

The Shelburne Museum is a museum of art, design, and Americana.  Over 150,000 works are exhibited in 38 exhibition buildings, 25 of which are historic and were relocated to the Museum grounds.  I viewed Impressionist paintings, folk art , quilts and textiles, decorative arts, furniture, as well as a bunch of 17th- to 20th-century artifacts. 

http://shelburnemuseum.org/

I was particularly inspired by the overshot coverlets.  These coverlets were extremely popular in almost every community in the United States from the coloniel era until the late 19th century.








Friday, June 20, 2014

18th Century Stripes & Plaids

My dress fabric is in progress and now it is time to make a warp for a  some historical fabric reproductions ! My goal is to reproduce a histocial fabric from the 1700's that I can then make into period clothing.  I am refferncing swathces from the book Textiles in American 1650-1870.


These swatches are from 1737 but, the stripes and plaids pictured are seen though out the 18th century.  I will weave half of my fabric as stipes and the second half as a plaid so I'll get two txtiles in one warp.     

                         

After carfully inspecting and counting the threads I sketched up a plan for my fabric.  These simplistic looking fabrics have complicated warps.  My first warp had two colors.  This one will have three colored stripes of a different width each.  I am defintely challenging myself on this one !  



Thursday, June 19, 2014

Beats

A beat in terms of weaving is when you pull back the beater bar / reed and "beat" in the threads you just shot though.  Consistent beats with the same amount of pressure in each pull back make even looking fabric.  Machine woven fabrics look smooth becasue there isn't room for human error.
I am loving the inconsistency in my handwoven textile.  You can really see the hand of the weaver making the fabric one of a kind and beautiful.  I am striving for consitancy which will come with practice but, for my first project I am enjoying seeing my progress woven in front of me as I pass, beat, change.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Time to Weave !

This afternoon I finshed threading my warp and started weaving.  It was tricky to pick a weft color.  Every time you shoot a new color through the shed you get a very different result.  I ended up going with purple becaue it felt right and looks funky paired with the orange.. a perfect combo for my tunic dress.

shooting colors through


w e a v i n g 



5 yards to go !


Tuesday, June 17, 2014

T H R E A D S

This morning I did some of the "work" end of my work/study apprenticing.  Kate had me weave cotton dishtowls.  I was doing a twill weave .  Finding a rythem in weaving is key.  Pass, beat, change, beat, pass and so on..  I'll try and post a video of myself weaving soon !



Cotton twill dishtowels 

The remainder if the day I went back to working on my own project.  I finished threading the heddles which was quite tedious.  Feeling ambitious, I knocked out the threading of the reed as well in the evening wrapping up a long day of threads at 9:30pm..



Threading the heddles



The finished reed








Monday, June 16, 2014

Warping

Wow, today I set up a warp and began warping a loom.  I have wondered how to do this complicated proecess for a long time.  It has always looked extremely difficult but, with helpful instruction from Justin, one of the weavers, and attention to detail it is actually quite manageable.

Justin and I started the day by planning project # 1.  I will be weaving an 8/2 cotton weight twill striped fabric to make into a tunic dress.  I am basing the pattern for the the dress off of my thrifted red tunic dress some of you have may have seen me wear... a lot.   Justin commented that the dress's basic shape has resemblance to 18th century short gowns.  With this in mind we decided to make the width 24'' wide with an extra 2'' for shrinkage and seem allowance.  The warp we measured to be 5 yards.  There will be 24 threads per inch.

Once the math was done it was time to choose colors !  I am keeping it simple with only 2 colors : rust and dusty purple.  I haven't decided on my weft threads yet..


This is a warping board. It is a mesuirng tool.  Winding the threads in a specifc pattern around the pegs sets the threads up for weaving.  After a bit of winding you get the rhythm...



..and when you're done you crochet chain it off

 

The warp threads going onto the loom...


and through the heddles..

There are lots of tricks and methods to warping.
Once I complete threading the heddles I'll be ready to weave !






Sunday, June 15, 2014

Moving In

 I have arrived in VT and am all settled into the lovely apartment which I will be staying in for 2 weeks of the apprentiship.  It is attached to a huge barn and the views surrounding the property are breath taking.  

                              
                                            Cows grazing outside of the kitchen window !
Kate and I took a trip to get groceries at the town co-op.  As far a food goes, it's going to be a very fresh a local next couple of weeks.    

There are lots of hand woven textiles around the apartment.  This colorful rug is in the kitchen and I may be weaving a new second one.  
A few of the many looms.